Breakout/development board for ATtiny3217 and other 24-pin megaAVR ATtiny, Arduino compatible
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Convenient, minimalist breakout/development board for any 24-pin tinyAVR 0/1/2-series (3227, 1627, 3217, 1607, etc) - bare board version Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasin…
Read More…Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasing parts based on their "avr8" architecture. These use the familiar AVR instruction set (with slightly improved timings) and open source avr-gcc compiler used with the classic AVR microcontrollers, but with redesigned and more capable on-chip peripherals and highly competitive prices. The best known of these (among hobbyists, at least) is the ATmega4809, used on the Arduino Uno WiFi Rev.2 and Nano Every. However, there is also an extensive line of ATtiny parts based on this new architecture as well as the flagship AVR devices in the Dx-series My megaTinyCore and DxCore packages provide full Arduino support for this exciting new architecture.
This is available as an assembled board with a 3227, 3217, or while supplies last, a 1607
Board dimensions are 1.9" x 0.85"
The Rev. D has the latest version of the jumpers to make use of the unused pins on the 6-pin FTDI connector - CTS is connected to UPDI by default, so that you could combine the programmer and serial comms into one connector (we are developing a UPDI programmer that can switch between serial passthrough and UPDI programming that will be most convenient in this configuration) but CTS can be routed to PB0 (USART0 XDIR - for RS485) or ground (for applications that detect a connected device by it's pulling CTS low).
Likewise, DTR can be either routed to a pin (PB1). likely most useful for 0/1-series parts to use as an "ersatz reset pin" that would perform a software reset and be triggered by the falling edge - or it can be used with the usual Arduino RC autoreset circuit to generate a pulse on PA0 (can be reset on any 0/1/2-series part - but at the cost of losing the UPDI pin and needing to use either a bootloader or an HV programmer to reprogram; the latter requires disconnecting this solder bridge) or PB4, which on the 2-series only can be set to be the alternate reset pin, so you don't need to mess with HV UPDI programming.
Finally, all sources of power: the Vcc pin on serial, on the UPDI header, and the output of the regulator have a cuttable jumper if you need to disconnect it (for example if you're making something that runs directly from a LiPo battery, you would need to avoid connecting the battery straight to a 3.3v (or god help you a 5v) serial adapter's Vcc. The regulator output, serial Vcc pin, and UPDI programmer Vcc pin disconnect jumpers are marked V_REG (top right next to tab of regulator), V_SER, and VUP respectively.
For more information about using the modern tinyAVR 0/1/2-series with Arduino, see the megaTinyCore documentation, now more comprehensive than ever.
Soldering on the quad flat no lead (QFN) package that these parts are available in is not for a soldering novice. It can be done without as much difficulty as many people think, provided you have good eyesight and good equipment. It can be done with either iron or hot air using reasonably good 158C or 138C solder paste (the 138C stuff is also available in wire form, but is not common). Soldering with 183C tin/lead solder requires considerably more care, as it is far harder to correct any misalignment. Regardless of what method is used to solder the part all four sides should be examined afterwards, after removing any flux residue that might obstruct your view of the joint with 91-99% isopropanol. Bridges are most easily removed using a tinned-face-only bevel soldering iron tip or knife tip (apply a small amount of flux - preferably the clear type (like Icing SD360 or UGain UG78 as opposed to a more aggressive, rosin based flux that will darken and make it harder to see whether you were successful) to the bridge(s), wipe the tip quick;y on either a damp sponge or cotton cloth to remove any excess solder, and then melt the solder bridge and drag the iron away from the chip. That is surprisingly effective, and will usually clear the bridge unless there is either far too much solder (use desoldering braid) or the chip is misaligned such that one or more sides have the pins on the chip located in-between two pads. Fixing that requires all of the solder under the chip to be melted. With low temp solder this is not terribly difficult, but even with tin/lead solder, it requires good equipment to do with hot air, (and forget about using an iron or hot air on traditional lead free solder). A desoldering hotplate is highly effective, even a low quality one - though those often overheat the board, leading to the silkscreen discoloring.
We also sell a board in the same spirit for the 20-pin (ATtiny parts with part numbers ending in 06, 16, or 26) and 14 pin (part no. ending in 04, 14, or 24) 0/1/2-series tinyAVR parts, and for the 8-pin (part no. ending in 02 or 12) 0/1-series ones, and assembled boards are also available in those sizes as well (though we are no longer assembling 0-series breakout boards). All of the parts except the 24-pin ones are available in an SOIC package which is much easier to solder than a QFN.
The newer ATTiny3227 adds some compelling improvements, but also yanks out a few features, so it's not strictly an upgrade, but is more often than not better. They're priced about the same. Extra 1k SRAM in 32k parts. Two more CCLs, and all 6 event channels work like they do on the Dx-series (ie, each one has sync and async subchannels, so you don't have to keep two kinds of generators and users straight) and the generator options are more uniformly distributed. The TCBs can count events. Oh and in place of the (dual) 10-bit single-ended ADC, you get a 12-bit differential ADC with a programmable gain amplifier (up to 16x, usable in single ended mode), with 15 single ended or positive channels and 7 negative channels. The signal can be sampled around twice as fast at the 1-series, or faster with an external reference, and can automatically accumulate up to 1024 readings for oversampling & decimation to achieve a theoretical 17bit accuracy. This is also a true differential ADC - in contrast to the Dx where the voltage had to be below VREF, on the 2-series, it can even go a fraction of a volt beyond the power rails, allowing you to, say, have power connected throug ha current sense resistor on the high side, and use the differential ADC to measure the voltage drop across that resistor using the smallest reference and largest gain (the lower the value of that sense resistor, the less it impacts the voltage the ATtiny sees, which is great for everything except sensing the current through the sense resistor)/ Only 6 PWM pins (no timer D) All parts have 2 TCBs and a second USART. * Dozens of errata that impacted the 0/1-series have been corrected.
The ATtiny1607 is the top-end 0-series part in the 24-pin package. The 0-series is intended for low cost applications, and cuts a few features for a meager discount. The 0-series discount is less than 10% vs the 1-series version, and around 15% vs the 2-series. Don't forget that 16k 1/2-series parts have 2k SRAM, but 16k 0-series parts have only 1k SRAM. For hobbyists and one-off projects, the 3217 or 3227 is almost certainly a better deal. We do not plan to assembly more boards based on the tinyAVR 0-series moving forward. Demand has been poor, which is, in hindsight, unsurprising since they are strictly worse than the 1-series The main differences are: 16Kb flash, 1k SRAM Only 6 PWM pins (no timer D) Only 1 type B timer (Servo and Tone can't be used at the same time) No DAC. No external analog reference Only one ADC, only one analog comparator, only 3 event channels. None of those 3 can carry RTC-PIT events.
We are only assembling boards with the Rev. D now. We have considerable inventory of -, A, and B bare boards, and we are selling them at a major discount, including out usual buy-us-out-get-the-stencil-free deal!
There are two approaches to programming these parts:
Unlike other AVR microcontrollers, these new parts are programmed via a "UPDI" single wire interface instead of ISP. While we previously recommended using a nano running jtag2updi to program these, now the SerialUPDI tool, included with megaTinyCore, allows programming of UPDI parts with just a standard serial adapter and a resistor or schottky diode. In light of the simplicity of the modification and low cost and abundance of serial adapters, SerialUPDI is our recommended programing tool.
The order of the pins on the UPDI header is UPDI-Gnd-Vcc - this means that in the most common configuration, a target board powered by the serial adapter's Vcc pin, the board will not suffer immediate harm if the UPDI programming connector is on backwards - the UPDI pin tolerates up to 12v for HV-override of UPDI pin function. The 470 ohm resistor on the breakout board is between the UPDI pin of the programming header and the actual I/O pin of the chip, so that the pin can be miswired without the current exceeding a non-damaging value, and that even in the event that the programmer and target were out of sync and trying to drive the pin in opposite directions, that would not exceed the maximum ratings of the part, even were the load to be continuous (which it likely would not be, since you'd notice that it wasn't working and likely quickly discover such a wiring error.
Alternately, a serial bootloader can be used (megaTinyCore includes a compatible version of Optiboot and prebuilt binaries to support the typical usage scenarios) Because the Reset and UPDI functionality shares the same pin, on the 0/1-series parts it is only possible to have an external reset signal to begin an upload if UPDI has been disabled (requiring an HV UPDI programmer to restore). This is inconvenient, especially since not only are HV UPDI programmers uncommon, it is likely that with the DD and EA-series parts, a new tide of HV-UPDI-but-for-not-for-tinyAVR programmers will appear. Those parts have a dedicated pin which can be set to be reset or an input in addition to the UPDI pin which can be set to be a GPIO. The critical difference is that on those parts, the reset/input only pin gets the HV pulse to override the pin functions, instead of the UPDI pin. That is a Big Deal, and makes design of the programmer much easier - you don't need to worry about +12v damaging the programmer - the reset line and the output of a 5v->12v boost or capswitch dc-dc converter is all that is needed.
megaTinyCore now supports the Optiboot bootloader for serial uploads (though you still need a UPDI programmer to bootload the board). For 2-series parts, which support a setting which moves the reset function to PB4 and which have a PB4 to move it to (such as the 3227). These get bootloader and PB4 reset enabled as standard. Uploading using a non-optiboot board selected will remove the bootloader, and "Burn Bootloader" with a UPDI programmer can be used to change PB4 back into a normal pin.
On the 0 and 1-series parts, and the 14-pin 2-series, since there is no alternate reset option, the most common way to enter the bootloader is on POR (power on reset) - you would plug and unplug power from the board not more than 8 seconds before the IDE attempts to upload to it (similar to the old digispark boards). Timing this can be frustrating, and the user experience is generally not great. However the alternative to get autoreset requires that you configure the UPDI pin as reset. Reversing this requires an "HV UPDI programmer" and those are not commonly found in the hands of hobbyists.
After turning a reset pin option, to get autoreset, you must connect the appropriate solder bridge on the back of the board: Pulse to PB4 or PA0 for a 2-series (yeah, you can set UPDI to act as reset on a 2-series that could use alt reset, if you're desperate for 1 more pin) - this can be done by just adding a small glob of solder to the appropriate pair of pins. Before using HV UPDI to restore normal UPDI functionality to the UPDI pin, you must disconnect this solder bridge, and if you turning PB4 into a normal pin instead of reset, you should also clear that solder bridge.
In some of the pictures shown above, the boards are shown with square pin header. Pin header sets are available as an option; in this case the UPDI and FTDI headers are right angle type, and UPDI, FTDI, Vdd and Gnd are white, yellow, red, and green respectively. The color coding can be a real help, especially in terms of preventing accidental reverse polarity situations, which generally result in destruction of hardware. These colored pin headers also look fantastic on pictures posted to social media ;-) We sell optional pre-cut pin header sets (note that you can't cut them with normal wire cutters, because that squishes the plastic enough that (in these boards for example) the Vcc or Gnd and I/O pins wouldn't quite fit. The same goes for breaking them off. We use a special cutting tool to precisely slice the header so that it can be used without this difficulty.)
You may have heard about the AVR DD-series, an extension of the high end AVR line down to flash sizes as small as 16k and pincounts as low as 14. Several times I have been asked which is better. The answer that it depends on what you're doing with them. We are working on getting Arduino support for the DDs working in DxCore, and already have hardware designs ready to put on sale then.
But really it's the first two bullet points that are most likely to be the deciding factor: If analog readings are a big part of your project, the 12-bit real differential ADC with PGA and 1024 sample accumulation beats the stuffing out of the 12-bit kinda-differential ADC with slower conversion (lower maximum ADC clock speed) with no PGA and 128 sample accumulation that the DD has. On the other hand, I know a lot of people were on the edge of their seat waiting for the low-pincount MVIO DD-series. So it's really all dictated by your application, and neither one is strictly better - in almost every design I've sketched out, only a DD or only a 2-series would work well. . Just don't forget that the swapped the position of power and ground on the DD's in the 20 and 14-pincount packages compared to the tinyAVR (like almost all ICs, applying reversed polarity to the power pins will near-instantly destroy the chip)
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