пИГВ1-16

This is a board that screws onto the back of an IGV1-16, GIPS-16 or Burroughs Self-Scan and handles the high voltage signaling between it and a Raspberry Pi Pico W, among other things.

You can read some datasheets for this incredible display tech here

If datasheets are a bit dry for your taste, Foone did a twitter thread about these a while back too.

I made this board as a refinement of my IGV1-16 Car Compass, and while I was at it, I added a bunch of other things to make it a more generalized development board for working with plasma scan displays.

Now it has a CAN bus transceiver onboard so you can have it read any data on your car's CAN bus and display it in gloriously sexy plasma discharge dots.

It also has 2 headers for SPI, a rotary encoder, I2C, and a couple GPIOs so you can interface it with pretty much any sensor imaginable. Did I mention it also has Wifi and Bluetooth?

The point of all this is to tame the mess of high voltage wiring required to interface with these obscure displays so you can get right to getting this rad vintage display technology in front of your eyeballs.

If you want to use it as a compass like I did, there's a header for a USFSMAX 10 dof fusion coprocessor board. Now that it's running on a dual core microcontroller, you could probably do the sensor fusion stuff onboard and use a much cheaper 9 DOF chip such as the MPU9250.

If you happen to drive a Jeep JL or a Gladiator, the case friction-fits perfectly into that slot on the top of your dashboard. And I'll raise two fingers from my hand on the steering wheel when I drive past you.

If you drive any other car, it's fully self contained (it just needs 12V and optionally, 2 CAN bus wires,) and the whole thing will sit a but higher on the dash. The Fusion 360 models are available on Github so if you want to redesign the case to be more flat and long, you can. Or you can send me a message and I'll probably do it for you if you like.

This first batch has a few (read: a bunch of) problems that I've bodged around by hand, adding pullup and series anode resistors, reworking the blanking circuit, changing all the 1206 resistors to the correct values (don't trust the silkscreen) and extending the holes so they line up with the posts on the IGV1 (if you're not going to use this with an IGV1, let me know and I won't cut the holes), so they'll be correspondingly cheaper (I only have 3 like this.)

Much nicer boards with all that stuff fixed are on their way from China, so if you want it to look super clean, stay tuned and those will be up in a couple weeks.