A parts kit to add USB-C charging to the DSi (original or XL), supports USBC to USBC charging
Designed by BronxDIY in United States of America
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This is a PCB USB-C charging port to replace the original charging port on the Nintendo DSi, this port works with USB-C to USB-C cable charging so you don't need to worry about having a USB to USB-C …
Read More…This is a PCB USB-C charging port to replace the original charging port on the Nintendo DSi, this port works with USB-C to USB-C cable charging so you don't need to worry about having a USB to USB-C cable.
The Installation jig allows you to solder down the board while holding it in alignment, two thumb screws are provided for easy assembly and disassembly of the jig.
Since you snip the jig to remove it I consider it a single use-item.
Here is my installation process:
BOARD INSTALLATION 1. Disassemble your Nintendo DSi
Remove the PCB.
Use a hot air station @290C (no more than 30-40 seconds is necessary) to remove the original charging port (preheat the board with a hot plate @168C or use the hot air station to preheat the board)
Clean the PCB pads, use braided solder wick and your soldering iron to remove the old solder on the pads. The solder creates a raised area on the board which makes it harder to slip the jig on.
Place the USBC board into the resin jig (if not already in there) and then firmly slip the jig onto the PCB the left arm should be pushed inward. Be careful not to flex the motherboard too much while also making sure it's pushed all the way on.
Turn the PCB board over and apply flux to the holes.
Use a decent amount of solder to the affix the board. I have my iron at 295C for this and I rotate between all of the pads/holes to make sure a decent of amount of solder flows through.
Use a multimeter to test GND (-) and VCC(+) make sure that they're not shorted and that you have good connections between PCB GND and USBC board GND and the same for VCC. Refer to the listing 'pinout' picture for valid GND and VCC points on the board to test. A short will blow the fuse and potentially ruin your motherboard so it's important to make sure these aren't shorted.
After continuity testing you'll need to snip the curled arm on the resin jig so that you can properly remove the resin jig (I use flush cutters).
SANDING/FITTING 1. Remove the back half of the DSi
Near the charge port part of the plastic back half of the DSi remove the raised plastic responsible for 'caging' the original charge port. That area should be relatively flat, refer to the pictures for a reference on what you're aiming for. Flush cutters, rotary tools, and sandpaper work wonders in removing the plastic.
Place the cutting jig onto the back half of the DSi, refer to the pictures for the correct orientation. Using a rotary tool or file cut out the space for the USBC jig. The cutting jig is purposefully undersized so after doing the rough cut with the jig you will need to make a finer pass with a round file. I use 3mm diameter files, be careful not to cut the flux cable while working. You can use the USBC board to check the fit as you file down to the shape you need.
When reassembling the DSi try to put the USBC port through the hole you made in the back half first and then snap it closed from there.
NOTE: The orange light flashes off if no battery is detected, to test the mod without reassembling the whole thing place the motherboard in the bottom half of the case and place a battery in before testing a usb-c cable.
The sanding is the hardest part.
REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS:
(highly) RECOMMENDED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS:
INCLUDED:
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