This is a PCB USB-C charging port to replace the original charging port on the Nintendo 2DSXL, this port works with USB-C to USB-C cable charging so you don't need to worry about having a USB to USB-C cable.

The Installation jig allows you to solder down the board while holding the PCB in perfect alignment, a thumb screw is provided for easy assembly and disassembly of the jig.

Some small filing is required, I recommend a 3mm round file but did not design or use a cutting jig as not much material needs to be removed.

The resin jig is a one use item as it needs to be cut to remove it from the PCB, please let the PCB cool for a minute or two before removing the jig so that you don't bend the PCB.

Here is my installation process:

1. Disassemble your 2DSXL, you need to unscrew the four screws on the back and work around it the plastic housing with a pry tool (a plastic one is best). Be careful about the depth of the pry tool as the speaker wires cross the bottom plate to the pcb and you can damage them. Please refer to the many video guides on the web about 2DSXL disassembly to help with this step.

2. Remove the PCB.

3. Use a hot air station @290C (no more than 30-40 seconds is necessary) to remove the original charging port (preheat the board with a hot plate @168C or use the hot air station to preheat the board), make sure to use wick to remove the solder from the pads.

4. Clean the PCB pads

5. Place the PCB in the jig, it goes in from the underside with the arch between the two 'arms/forks' and then it's tilted into the usb-c slot

6. slip the jig onto the pcb and push it in firmly, the 'peg' or outcrop of the pcb should fit into the corresponding hole on the jig and be almost flush with the face of the jig.

7. Apply flux to the solder pads.

8. Heat the iron to ~300 C and apply solder to the pads filling them, I rotate my iron between the pads, and affixing the boards together.

9. Wait a few minutes to allow the board to cool, clip the arms of the jig with sidecutters and remove it.

10. The pcb may be slightly lifted from the board, you can use a hot air station and hot plate to 'settle' it.

11. Use a multimeter to double check that you've made your connections and that the positive isn't shorted to ground.

GRINDING/FITTING: 1. Take the board and place it in the bottom half of the housing to check where/how much you need to file to get the USB-C plug through. Make small cuts and then check by putting the PCB back in the bottom plate, it's a bit tedious but shouldn't take too long.

1. Use flush cutters to cut away the portion of the plastic battery housing that covered the charging port, you can screw the housing back to the board to check that you've cut enough.

2. There is a black plastic protrusion that rises to meet the bottom of the old charging port, it is on the mid-plate and you'll need to cut it so that the it won't interfere with the bezel.

3. Reassemble everything, you can put the bezel on just before closing it to screw everything back on so it doesn't slide around and make assembly difficult.

I'd say it's easier than doing the original 2DS version of the mod.

REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS:

1. A soldering Iron
2. Flux
3. Solder
4. Screwdrivers
5. Multimeter
6. Grinding pen or rotary tool or files
7. Flush cutter

(highly) RECOMMENDED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS:

1. Hot air station
2. Hot plate

INCLUDED:

1. USB-C PCB board fully assembled
2. Resin printed jig
3. Resin printed bezels, one spray painted black the other spray painted white (leave a note and they can both be one color or I can leave one or both unpainted).