This is a PCB USB-C charging port to replace the original charging port on the N3DS-XL (the new model with the C-stick nub), this port works with USB-C to USB-C cable charging so you don't need to worry about having a USB to USB-C cable.

The cutting jig allows you to locate a good spot for the USB-C cut out and cut most of it out with a rotary tool and then do the rest slowly with a round file (1-3mm in diameter). While I've tested the jig on a few N3DS XL boards I can't guarantee a perfect fit so some sanding may be required. Here is my installation process:

CUTTING

1. Disassemble your N3DS XL, you can leave the motherboard alone you just need the backplate.

2. There is a square hole along the molding of the stylus near the right trigger, put the square peg of the jig inside it. It should be a tight snug fit, if you can't fit it in lightly sand the cutting jig peg and try again.

3. Hog out 70-90% of the cut with a rotary tool, mind that the jig doesn't come off-center while cutting.

4. Remove the jig and finish the hole with files, check back constantly with the USB-C board to see if it can finally fit through the hole you're filing out.

WIRING/ASSEMBLY

1. Turn the USB-C board over and you will find the 5v via and pad, solder the red wire to this via or pad. Be mindful that we'll be routing the wire out from under the pcb towards the side opposite of BXDIY.

2. Any of the other pads on the underside are GND and you can wire the black wire to them, do not wire the black wire to the USB-C shield it will ruin the fit of the fixture that has to sit over it.

3. Use some tweezers and manipulate the board into the hole, the PCB should be on the 'bottom' check the photos for orientation.

4. Route the wires behind the stylus square, place the bottom half of the N3DS XL next to the top half like a clamshell.

5. You now have a few wiring choices you can: A) Leave the motherboard installed and wire to it or B) Unscrew and disconnect the motherboard and wire to the pads at the bottom of the charging port.

Each option has pros and cons, with A if your iron temperature is too high or you heat up the port for too long you can melt and warp the plastic housing and if you're not careful with routing you can cut the wire with the charging port during assembly. The advantage of A is that it's shorter to accomplish and you don't risk damaging the many finicky ZIF connectors on the N3DS XL. I will walk through doing A.

1. Apply flux to the positive and negative pads of the charging port.

7A. I use a Pinecil iron with a BC2 tip and a 20v power source @ 280 C with amtechs NC-559-V2-TF flux, I get a blob of solder on my tip and hold the wire to the pads with tweezers and tack them on. It doesn't take more than a few seconds.

8A. Look at the PCB board and the back housing, plan a routing path that keeps the wire from being crushed while giving you enough slack to re-assemble. Look at the photos for reference ( I used cloth tape to tack down the wires).

1. Place the fixture over the pcb board, it should 'snap' (depending on the fit) into place. If it doesn't fit try sanding the edges and double check that you didn't bend the three plastic fins on the back housing. If it falls out during assembly try using tape to hold it down. It's job is to keep the USB-C board from walking when you plug the USB-C cable in or take it out.

REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS: 1. A soldering Iron 2. Flux 3. Solder 4. Screwdrivers 5. Multimeter 6. Rotary tool or drill and files. 7. Tape (kapton, cloth, any tape you feel comfortable with when routing wires as long as it's not conductive).

INCLUDED: 1. USB-C PCB board fully assembled 3. 3D Printed cutting jig 4. 3D Printed fixture 5. Pre-cut wires (silicone 30 AWG)