About

If you have a JK Rubicon, your factory SmartBar (electronic sway bar disconnect) will eventually die in one of several ways. Replacing it with something like the Evo No Limits On Demand unit is the obvious choice. However, controlling it requires installing a separate switch, programming the Jeep to not expect the SmartBar be installed, and losing the ability to use the factory Sway Bar button and indicator light.

The DumbBar solves these problems, and more. It connects to the vehicle CANBUS just like the factory unit. It talks to the computer like the original unit does, and avoids the blinking "SWAY BAR" light on the dash. It responds to the factory Sway Bar button pushes, toggles a relay, and illuminates the light in the dash appropriately. With this installed, you do not need an expensive tool to de-program the Jeep to avoid the blinking light.

Further, unlike the factory sway bar which will only activate in 4WD and under 18MPH, the DumbBar will let you control the sway bar at any time, even in 2WD and at any speed. It remembers the state you've selected across start/stop/start cycles and restores it until you decide to disconnect it.

Installation

Installation is mostly straightforward, although it is not plug-and-play. This is a significant modification to your vehicle and care should be taken, of course. Please review the installation instructions before purchase (see the "Datasheet" link below). The board requires access to the CANH and CANL wires from the factory SmartBar harness, as well as ignition-switched 12V and ground. It provides relay contacts which are suitable for controlling any sort of solenoid you may be using to activate your aftermarket sway bar disconnect. You will need basic wiring skills to install this.

Ideally you would have already cut off your factory connector and have access to the wires within. Those can be connected directly to the terminals on the board for the CANBUS connection, and it also contains the switched 12V and ground wires, which can be reused.

For those that wish to retain the factory connector, a replacement connector kit is offered, which allows accessing the relevant pins from the factory connector. However, this is just a kit - you will need to provide extension wires, solder them to the board, and then assemble the housing with CA glue and RTV to provide a weather-resistant seal. Cutting the connector off is a better option if you have no desire to ever return to a factory SmartBar.

I will provide more detailed instructions to purchasers and be available via email for help installing. Contact me ahead of time for more details about installation if you have questions.

FAQ

1. Q: Does this work with the factory SmartBar to remove the limitations? A: No, this replaces the factory SmartBar on the CANBUS network and does not work with it in any way
2. Q: Does this work with other models like the JL/JT? A: Possibly, but it has not been tested.
3. Q: Is this a permanent installation? A: It depends. If you have already cut your factory SmartBar connector off after an Evo No Limits install then there is really nothing else you need to permanently modify to make this work.
4. Q: Does this work with anything other than the Evo No Limits On Demand bar? A: It is really just a relay that responds to the Sway Bar button. You could hook up a light bar instead if you wanted to.
5. Q: Where does the board mount? A: The closer to the factory harness the better. Technically the CANBUS wires should remain twisted until they are connected to the controller board and if you extend them you should twist the extensions. The board needs to be mounted where it will be protected from extreme heat as well as road moisture and chemicals. I have mine extended with non-twisted wires all the way up to where the brake booster is and I do not have problems, but your mileage may vary.

Options

The basic offering here is just the board. You decide how and where to mount it and how to get the CANBUS wires and power to the board.

You can optionally add the connector kit to interface with the factory connector. You supply the wire, RTV, and CA glue required for final assembly. Note that the connector housing is 3D-printed out of ABS/ASA. I have had it on my Jeep for years in the rainy PNW with no problems, but it is not as weather tight as a commercial product. It will provide a no-cut way to install the controller, but you might want to consider cut-and-direct-wire long term.

You can optionally add the enclosure which provides a cable gland and mounting solution inside the enclosure. You can ziptie this somewhere or make other arrangements for how and where to mount the box.