I am using this with a teensy 3.2 to monitor and control some of the functions in my electric car (converted old British sports car - MGB/GT). The photo board section is large enough to accomodate an isolated voltage/current sensor, opto-isolators, voltage level converters, real-time clock, etc. The quality of this board is exceptional, nice crisp traces and labeling making it easy to tightly pack discrete components. I will use another photo board for a second module with LED and relay drivers, opto-isolators, voltage level converters, etc. on the photo board section. I would like to try this next with a teensy 3.6, realizing that I may have to solder connections to the back-side pads on the extended section of the teensy 3.6.

I've got this and the Teensy 3.1 breakout and I love them both. I keep debating whether or not I want to attach one of those mini breadboards to it or not (kinda don't want to ruin it since it'd kind of be a waste of space if I wanted to put a shield on it).

My only real gripes are that the silk-screening is a bit hard to read - though there are a boatload of pins, so I can certainly see how labeling would be problematic! I just ended up printing out a cheat sheet, though it too is a bit hard to read (darn all those options lol!)

The other is that while the double rows of pins for the teensy is an excellent idea, its a tad close to the shield area making it difficult to use the pins on the side of the board facing a shield (depends on the shield I suppose).

I'd love to see someone printing pinouts on the headers like the Uno (from Arduino themselves). Would make things so much easier.

I suppose too, it'd be nice to get a US distributor for faster shipping, though it was pretty quick anyway.

Keep up the awesome work!

Product arrived here today (the package got stuck in my country's customs office for a few weeks.).
The build looks good and the contents are perfect quality. I can't wait to try it out.

I just received my kits and board. I ordered 4 kits and one assembled board with a Teensy 3.1. That way I could see and test a sample that was pre-assembled, in case for any reason my soldering skills weren't perfect. At least I'd have a tested working unit. I also wasn't sure how many of my Teensy's I would actually need to solder on the bottom pins/headers, so I can use the kits either with or without the bottom pins.

As someone else said, the quality of the boards is very nice, reminiscent of the Adafruit Perma-Proto boards, which in my mind set the quality standard. Nice solder mask, gold plated through holes.

I'm much more of a beginner with respect to the advanced features that Michael refers to in his review, but clearly the v1.1 version of the board incorporates some (many?) of Michael's suggestions. As a frequent contributor to the Teensy forum, Michael's comments and observations are probably good ideas. Since I have a few years to get to that level, I am glad there are people like Michael who take the time to dig into something like this board to help make it even more useful.

There is a lot going on with this board, and the Teensy 3.1 in general too. A couple more added comments in the datasheet/documentation might help…
1) A version number on the silkscreen might be useful. If the design evolves a bit more, it would be good to be able to tell at a glance which board you have (I know I'll be ordering more over time).
2) There are 3 solder pads on the bottom near Res. I can't tell what they are for, and I cannot find any reference to them.
3) I am still learning the variations of power for the Teensy 3.1... Vusb, Vin, LiPo, etc. Perhaps a note (or link) that explains the possible permutations, and why and when one should use one or the other would be helpful, including the jumper on the board. It can be very confusing, even piecing together the hints from the Teensy forum.
4) I also do not fully understand when to use/add resistors for the i2c pins. A comment or guidance on the datasheet might be helpful too.

All-in-all, a beautiful board that will help tremendously with access to all the pins, functionality and versatility of the powerful Teensy 3.x.

Thanks for taking the time to design and produce such a useful board.

I bought an assembled board which came surprisingly quickly from Japan. I am more than satisfied with the fit and layout of the board. I have big hands. The board is actually easier for me to work with than an Arduino Uno. Lately, I have been playing with various LCD screens. I have a Nokia 5110 set up on a breadboard which tests well with an Uno. I use Adafruit's libraries and example sketch. When I wired it up to the Arduino shield, it did not work at first. Upon examination, I had misplugged the Teensy. This is a problem with my big hands and sometimes questionable eyesight at close ranges. When I plugged the Teensy in correctly, everything worked. Because the Teensy is teensy, it might be wise to put a dab of color on the first socket. I think the jumper threw me off.

The board is perfect for fast prototyping.

I plugged the Teensy 3.1 in and added a Adafruit 2.8'' TFT.
It works like a charme.

Highly recommended.

Kind Regards
Andreas

Note, I just got this board, and looked at it a little, so it isn't a full fledged review, just my initial impressions. I haven't tried it with any Uno shields at present.

I bought the fully assembled version of the board, and came fairly quickly.

I really like the finish of the board. It reminds me of the Adafruit perma-protoboards (white board with through hole plating).

In terms of what you get with the fully assembled board, you get the board with all of the headers installed. Inside the inner headers, is the 7x2 male headers for the Teensy underside pins. These come out of the header, and you would need to solder these to your Teensy 3.x. If you are like me, and have a Teensy where PJRC soldered in the pins, all of those pins work, but you will need to solder in 4 pins to get access to VUSB, AREF, A10, and A11.

I do have a few minor niggles, in terms of the design:

1) The board does not provide headers for the i2c aux. pins next to AREF. It would simple to solder in a 2 pin header on the current board, but it would be nice in the future if a longer header row were supplied. A5/A4/AREF should also have a parallel connections for pins 0..13.

2) Speaking of i2c, on the Arduino Uno and other boards, users do not need to supply resistors for A4/A5. It would be nice if the board had a jumper (pin or solder headers) that we could turn on 4.7k resistors for A4/A5 so that i2c can be used out of the box.

3) The power jumper sticks out, and might get bent or get damaged in a close fitting enclosure. I would prefer the jumper to be on the board, and not sticking out like a sore thumb.

4) In terms of power, it might be useful to have a plug for 3.7v li-po batteries, possibly adding a charging circuit if you have a USB power connection. I am unsure whether it would be better to plug the li-po battery directly into VIN, or do a boost to 5v, before plugging it into VIN.

5) Similarly to #1, there are 2 pins to the left of the reset pin that are not attached. One pin is IOREF that probably would be useful to export. I'm not sure what the other pin does.

6) I tend to prefer protoboards that are laid out like breadboards, so you don't have to make solder bridges to do some connections. But others prefer protoboards that have no connections.

7) One thing that might be interesting to some people, is if the VUSB pin were located near where the VIN pin is. If they cut the solder joint on the Teensy that connects VUSB and VIN, on the Teensy they are fairly close together so you can easily bridge them. On this board, the VUSB on the other side of the board, and you would need a longer wire to attach them. Perhaps the solution is having a 3 way jumper (solder. dipswitch, or pin) instead of 2 way, that would not connect either power supply to VIN, connect VUSB to VIN, or connect the external power supply.

8) I haven't gotten into ICSP/SPI yet, but for the assembled board, it might be useful to put a 2x3 header block to easily attach the ICSP/SPI cable. Obviously, the Teensy doesn't use ICSP like Arduinos do, but perhaps people use it as a convenient way to attach SPI devices.

9) The pins for the external power supply are a little longer underneath the board than the other solder connections. I might try to bend these down, so it sits nicer.