Build Your Own USBASP

Name: Build Your Own USBASP
SKU: 4112
Price: 15.00 USD
Availability: OutOfStock

Programmer kit with only through-hole components

Designed by ptudor in United States of America

$15.00

Out of Stock

Sold out since Apr 14, 2015

Programmer kit with only through-hole components

A kit with parts to make your own USBASP programmer Basically, this is a kit. Because sometimes it's fun to solder and after an hour of identifying parts and bending legs and scrubbing with alcohol l…

A kit with parts to make your own USBASP programmer

Basically, this is a kit. Because sometimes it's fun to solder and after an hour of identifying parts and bending legs and scrubbing with alcohol look at something that works and go, "My hands made something that works. Neat!" (Or sometimes say, "It doesn't work. What did I put in backwards?")

You can buy devices with a similar function Pre-Made. There's plenty of cheap models by Baite on auction sites. And there's my Golden State USBASP here on Tindie. But what you don't get from those is a deeper understand of all the individual parts that come together to make something work. I like making these so much I'll assemble it for free and you can admire something that looks nostalgic in an era of surface-mount.

What do I get?

First, there's the PCB. Then there's the USB connection, it's an old and giant but easy to solder B connection (not Micro, not Mini, just a common "printer cable" jack.) There's some diodes, resistors, capacitors, a fuse, and a 12 MHz crystal. There's a socket to hold the included and pre-programmed ATMega microcontroller. There's also two LEDs, a six-pin socket, six-pin cable, and a ZIF socket with a 16MHz resonator in case you're trying to update fuses on a device that already expects an external clock. Finally there's a little pin header with jumper to control power to the target device and four nylon screws with standoffs to keep this board elevated. It does not include the required USB cable because I really expect everyone has an extra.

Limitations for the sake of simplicity

This device only powers 5V targets. The socket only supports 28-pin ATMegas, so none of the smaller products should be directly inserted (but that's what the six-pin header is for). You could probably get creative and connect an A23 battery to this for 12V programming, but I won't suggest that, there's better high-voltage solutions.

Instructions

Basically we start from the center with the lowest pieces and move toward the outside and then the taller pieces. (If this guide is unclear, help me improve and revise it.)