Amazing product. Exceeded any and all expectations.
For Leviathan- Aquarium Automation Reef-Pi Board
This is a must for the serious aquarium enthusiast.
The build so far...
Disclaimers: I am not a reef enthusiast; freshwater tropical fish has always been my hobby. Nothing exotic, the kiss principle applies.
I am not an EE, English was my major. I have been in the computer industry for 25 years but in sales and service – I’m a wanna-be geek. The last time I seriously built something electronic was assembling Dynaco amplifiers, Lafayette kits and stuff from Radio Shack – so the truth is out, I’m a hack.
I am using a Raspberry Pi 4 4g ram, I imaged a ssd to replace the sdcard. Used the stock rasbian image and installed apache2, php, mariadb and reef-pi. I run a tank data management site, that I wrote, to collate all my aquarium crap on the apache server. Reef-pi handles the hardware.
First I supported Brandon on Kickstarter and was rewarded with a freshwater basic Leviathan ~Scylla Board~. With the board in hand, I realized my mistake (65yr old eyes) I purchased from Tindie a fully populated board.
I built a stand to hold a 28gal tank and house the Leviathan/Reef-pi system. The side panel has 12 outlets wired to a simple project box I built. The box slides on a track so it is accessible from the front or the back.
I put a fan on the front, with a rack next for the ssd/pi/Leviathan. I upgraded the buck converters to ones with led voltage displays and put in two 8 channel relay boards (it’s good to have spares).
The power comes into a switched box with an aux outlet. I have the system running on a 600w apc ups. The ac is cabled to the box, through the relays and out to the outlets. Very simple. I have 8 3.5mm female jacks on the back surface of the box. 4 for lights, 3 for temp sensors and a spare. I am still debating the ph sensor. The recalibration frequency is the lynch pin on that decision. I don’t dose anything, so I didn’t install anything for that. The ATO and float sensors are a maybe. My needs are simple. I do once a week water changes. I use a pump to refill the tank and it is now controlled by the switching.
The lights were fun. I have Beamsworks DA 6500K 0.50W Series LED strip on the 55. It has white and blue leds. There is a port on the side of the light that allows the addition of a timer module. Dimming is accomplished with an inline pwm dimmer. I was very fortunate to find an enthusiast on reef2reef – Bigtrout – who was super kind enough to detail how he managed his BeamsWork DA FSPEC LED lights to power on and ramp up and down via Reef-pi. The secret is a p channel mosfet module. Using the connector cable that comes with the beamsworks timer module, a pair of these modules and a project box – the light strip dims up and down like a champ. The info is in the pictures The module is a 12V 24V 36V Mosfet High Voltage Switch Module 3V 5V Low Control top . I couldn’t find any local supply so I ordered some from England and China – guess which ones were cheaper. I did find a similar module locally. The issue with it was it was configured toonly be a switch. I had to replace the resistors at the mosfet to enable the boards to dim correctly. Those suckers are small. But I have fully functional lights.
All in all I’m thrilled with it all and it has been a very enjoyable education.
Note to potential buyers. Unless you have a passion for soldering small things and have young eyes - Do yourself a favor and buy the fully populated board.
I will most certainly buy more of these and look forward to new products as they come through the pipeline. Hint - more testing stuff - Hint Hint!
Response from Leviathan- Aquarium Automation | May 8, 2020
Wow Robert,
Thank you for the incredibly detailed review!
I'm glad the lights wound up working out with that modification. That just goes to show the best thing about Reef-Pi though. There's an incredibly helpful community based around it & by this point, there's probably someone out there who's figured out the answer to even the most specific, obscure challenges & is more than happy to share.
As far as the Scylla board goes, I actually decided to only offer the fully populated Leviathan board & completely un-populated Kraken board on Tindie. My thinking was that someone that's able to do the surface mount stuff on their own would be more than capable of adding resistors & connectors, so the Scylla & Charybdis boards were in a bit of a grey area of usefulness. Figured I'd just cut the selection down to 2 to save confusion.
It's been great following along with your build on the Facebook group & I'll definitely be sharing any future projects of mine on there as well! I've already got something bouncing around in my head, I've just got to find the time to flesh out all the details.
~Brandon