I purchased this kit, and while it is pretty much what is stated, DO READ CAREFULY as the pictures are deceptive, pictures do show the finished product, but the clear laser cut acrylic case is NOT included. Unboxing, my kit didn't have any instructions, but they are linked in the product page, so that's ok. I then realized I was also[p missing the USB-C board. Being a EE myslef, I am not impressed by the execution. The way the Pi is soldered onto the back of the PCBA is not a strong bond for a board that size. I certainly would not do a drop test on this, or expect the Pi to rip off the pads on the PCB. Overall, I am disappointed, but my bad for not reading carefully. I expected a complete kit (without the Pi of course), but you'll find yourself hunting a lot of the missing parts, unless you do what I did: throw it in the circular bin.

A nice piece of hardware for a "high" price (with some extra costs).

Just thinking that the components just cost just a few dollars and the kit is sold for 50 pounds and then in Europe you have to pay additional 10-15% custom duty, as the sender is not paying them in acdvance like any chinese seller do. So the final kit cost me around 55 pounds, okay.
As I printed myself the case I doesnt have to order the very expensive acrylic case and I can change color as often as I want easy and quick. So I think about to make the buttons A, B, X, Y in colors of Nintendos controller.

Then the first really hard step is to "cup-solder" the pi onto the board. As the most will end, my first solder was a nope too. So i testet round an round and was close to throw all in the trash bin, due to the really bad construction of the pcb. I would have made pin holes through so that soldering could done properly from both sides and then 1-2mm distance for the screen - tada!
Also the solderpin header on my delivery was not as described in the guide. I havent got the shown header at one piece so I couldnt cut them in a 3-piece and the rest for the 11-block, I had to combine two shorter parts for the long side at the audio component.
Next, the holes for the displaypins are missing. I saw in a video what was linked in the guide, that there was a pcb with excactly the holes for the pins on the backside of the screen. But missing somehow on my pcb, instead the guide say very professional "Make a loop with some kapton tape and press the screen down ..." Also that you have to holt back the audio jack with capton tape, so that it does not reach too far to the screen, instead offering distance pieces and double sided tape strips, could be included at this price I think.

Anyway. I now try to desolder my pcb as I tried to presolder the pads on the pcb to better connect the pi with the pcb as the cup-soldering is the most painful a**-f*ck I had ever to do!
I soldered all other parts now (except the Pi) with the method, that I sticked the solder wire into the cups, choped the wire with a cutter directly over the board I have to solder on, put the solder iron deep into the hole melting the short piece of solder and voila. Nearly all connections worked at first try. Sadly my 1,0mm solder wire slightly does not fit into the Pi holes, so that I have to buy a thinner wire or think about stretching it slightly to thinner it a little.

Shipping was horrible, as the box is very thin and not very robust. It already had bend marks but my luck all components seems to keep good (especially the screen).

@Ampersand: Save commenting my review, as we already had enough email communication. Better see my constructive criticism as possibility to improove your promissing product.

Regards,
Phil

I was expecting a full kit, that means a lot which would include the plastic case, and everything else. Instead, I got a bare circuit board with an LCD screen. What do I do with that ? Nothing ... I cannot use it given there is no case ...
And also the package was terrible. No box, I was lucky the LCD screen arrived not broken.
I just threw my money... Don't buy this. Not worth the money.